Transforming Drew Barrymore and Jessica Lange into "Little Edie" and "Big Edie" Beale required a top-of-the-line team of hair stylists, makeup artists, an award-winning prosthetics designer, a talented costume designer, dialect coaches, a singing coach and a choreographer. Add a director who, through four years of meticulous research, came to know the Beale women in and out, as well as two executive producers with an eye for detail. Bring on documentarian Albert Maysles as a production advisor who, along with his brother, spent six weeks chronicling the life of the Beales in the 1970s. And cast Barrymore and Lange - two of the industry's most talented actresses, who are known to immerse themselves in whatever characters they take on.
Barrymore was willing to jump through hoops to portray "Little Edie" Beale in HBO Films' Grey Gardens, debuting in April.
"I love the challenge of spanning the ages, going from 18 to 61 in this story," says Barrymore. "I thank God for Vivian Baker, who applied the prosthetics every day. And for Bill Corso, who designed the makeup - they did such a phenomenal job!"
Referring to the Beales, Academy Award®- and Emmy®-winning makeup artist Bill Corso says, "I saw it as an opportunity to recreate two of the most original and stunning female characters I have ever seen. The dedication and commitment that the actresses had to getting lost in their characters, to achieving as much of the 'warts and all' reality of the Beales, was one of our strongest assets."
Corso viewed the documentary a dozen times and assembled a massive amount of photo reference needed to match the looks of the Beale women. Working with Sucsy, he was able to Photoshop the different looks as they pertain to the different stages and ages of the women in the story, and then design and build the sculptures for the two characters. Corso utilized a relatively new process of water-based, paper-thin, translucent prosthetics called "transfers" that could be applied in minutes, last an entire shooting day and not destroy the skin with chemicals upon removal. Vivian Baker then came in to supervise the daily prosthetic transformation of the two actresses into "Little Edie" and "Big Edie" Beale. Working in tandem, Baker, makeup supervisor Linda Dowds, Sean Sansom, and their teams applied prosthetics and makeup to Barrymore and Lange that took, on average, three to four hours to apply and another hour and a half to remove.
''These were real people, and we really wanted to honor and be respectful to that," explains Dowds. "It was very special to watch what everyone did to keep the integrity of "not only the original Maysles film, but the integrity of the women themselves."
Jessica Lange had never worked with prosthetics before, yet was dauntless in the face of the time-consuming task of applying all the different pieces to turn her into "Big Edie" Beale. A fake forehead, fake eyebrows, jowls, a sagging neck, a new nose, mouth, teeth and even ear lobes all went into the construction. Despite the discomfort and havoc the glue played with her sensitive skin, Lange was eager to transform her smaller nose to the patrician one that the older Mrs. Beale woman had, knowing that would make a difference in the character.
Transforming Barrymore and Lange into the Beales was truly a team effort. When prosthetics are involved, it is imperative that the makeup and hair departments work closely with the wardrobe department, mindful that neither one's work impair that of the other.
Costume designer Catherine Marie Thomas was in frequent discussions with Vivian Baker and hairstylist Jenny Arbour, especially with "Little Edie"'s various head coverings.
"Working with the prosthetic pieces, we had to look at the way the scarves would frame Drew's face," explains Thomas. "Something that's stretchy changes the prosthetic versus something that is silk."
Recreating the style of the early years of the story was a creative endeavor for Thomas, as she crafted elegant gowns and party attire germane to the 1930s, based on researched photographs. Jessica Lange's spirited wardrobe for that period was based on Michael Sucsy's finding that "Big Edie" was once a playful maverick, looking to defy the social convention of her pedigreed status. The oversized yet tasteful hats and colorful palazzo pants were a wink to her rebellious nature.
In addition to the scope of costumes that span four decades, Barrymore's character of "Little Edie" goes through 42 costume changes in the film, from her eyecatching black and white debutante gown in the 1930s, to her outlandish get-ups in the 1970s, when the documentary was shot. To create the look for both actresses, Thomas relied on a wealth of photographs that director Sucsy had amassed during his research while writing the script. For "Little Edie," Thomas looked to design dresses with a bit of a twist, feeling that the daughter's penchant for the avant-garde started early in life, although it reached its apex in the 1970s.
"Everyone, including fashion designers and costume designers, is fascinated with 'Little Edie''s unique way of putting things together," explains Thomas. "It was a creativity born from her own unabashed disregard for what anybody else thought."
"Little Edie"'s ability to concoct outfits from whatever she could scavenge from her house - tablecloths mixed with her sweaters, pants and skirts worn in unconventional ways - was what Thomas refers to as a "decoupage effect." It was also a source of fascination for Barrymore, who would study the documentary over and over with Thomas in an attempt to figure out the geometry of Edie's clothing.
According to Thomas, it is conceivable that "Big Edie"'s look in her later years was a result of her having her outlandishly creative daughter, her caretaker. "Little Edie" dressed her mother, as well as herself, in this eclectic manner, utilizing clothing from their past and mixing all worlds that led up to the present. In one scene, "Big Edie," who is for the most part bedridden, wears a turtleneck sweater tied around her chest by the sleeves, and in another, sports a silk dress coat she is seen wearing earlier in the 1950s. As seen in the documentary, "Big Edie" is always wearing jewelry, perhaps a personal preference or a choice of her accessory-conscious daughter.
One particularly offbeat task for the wardrobe department involved the birdseed breasts sewn into a body suit that Lange donned for "Big Edie" in the later years. "We needed to bulk her up," explains Thomas. "We tried the traditional fat suits, moved on to rice, and ultimately found the right look with birdseed."
"Since the documentary came out, there have been so many fashion stories," says Barrymore. "So many designers have done couture lines dedicated to 'Little Edie.' I think she had creative innovation that was beyond anything we can comprehend."
It was Edie's combination of items or use of clothing that wasn't intended to go where she put it that seems so mind-boggling today. She would take two shirts and put them on opposite ways, tie them in the middle and create a dress. Other times she would wrap a tablecloth around her waist, or flip an old skirt upside-down and close up any holes with a few large safety pins. Edie's trademark headscarves were sometimes shirts or sweaters elaborately tied up by the sleeves with old packaging twine and other times concocted from a simple tea towel and adorned with her famous broach. Had the Maysles not made the documentary, perhaps "Little Edie"'s stamp on the fashion world might never have been realized.
In addition to capturing the look of the Beales, it was imperative to the actresses and filmmakers that they capture the sound of the Beales. Seasoned dialect coaches guided Barrymore and Lange through the myriad of tones, cadences and timbres of their characters' voices as "Little Edie" and "Big Edie" aged 40 years in the story. Dialect coach Liz Himmelstein worked diligently with Barrymore two hours every day for many months before production began.
"This is a project where the dialect is so much a part of the fabric of the characters," says Himmelstein. "There was a great pressure to get it right, as there was a concern to honor Miss Beale fully."
In addition to the documentary, Barrymore studied "Little Edie"'s voice by listening to her many interviews. Each vowel, each diphthong, the consonant changes, her lengths, her rhythms and her melody, along with her use of pause and intonation, were all broken down as part of the daily drill. When filming began, Himmelstein turned over the on-set coaching to Howard Samuelsohn, who instructed Lange as well.
Describing the Beales' accent, Samuelsohn says, "It's an upper-class Long Island/New York City sound, with aspects of New England in it. It doesn't really exist anymore, but you can hear it in the recordings of Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt, Ruth Gordon and in many other old movies and recordings. The Beale ladies; of course, gave the accent a quality of its own."
Gelling the actresses to talk like the Beales was one thing; getting them to sing fell to singing coach Bob Garrett.
For Lange, the major challenge was the "Tea for Two" number. Because it is such an iconic moment in the documentary, Lange thought it was too famous a scene to put her own stamp on and chose to reproduce "Big Edie" in that sequence. After many, many hours of working with Garrett, who projected the documentary into a mirror, she was able to do exactly the same thing vocally and physically.
"It was meticulous, specific work, and Jessica became 'Big Edie' and was magnificent," says Garrett. "If you were to run the documentary with the film in that sequence, you would have trouble figuring out which was the original."
In assessing his pupils, Garrett says, "I found it very moving to watch Drew and Jessica dive into this material in a fearless way. Drew once said she sounded like two cats mating when she sang. Her hard work has turned her into a real singing pro. Jessica had never sung on film before, and I think her musical triumph is especially impressive."
To put the final coat of polish on recreating "Big Edie" and "Little Edie" Beale, Lange and Barrymore also received dancing instruction, as well as period etiquette lessons, ensuring that the subtle differences between ladies' behavior in the 1930s and 1950s would be accurate.
It is safe to say that no stone was left unturned in Grey Gardens.